Thảo luận về XBOX 360

RoD chỉ có loại 3 đèn đỏ do nóng GPU mới hỏng vĩnh viễn chứ bao nhiêu lỗi khác cũng bị 3 đèn đỏ nhưng sửa được

 

Vây sao lúc mình mua XBOX ở Halo Shop người ta dặn để nằm để đứng dể hư lắm

 

máy hotgame dễ bị rod lắm hả tớ định ra đấy mua ấy chứ ::(

 

Mình đã dùng máy được 7 tháng, nói chung là máy nóng nhưng chưa có hiện tượng gì, chơi thả giàn...vấn đề ROD thì nhiều rồi, mình xin giới thiệu các bạn 1 cách mà kết quả khả quan lắm
1. Chữa được 3ROD, không đứng máy , chạy tốt - 259
2. Chữa được 3ROD, đứng máy nhưng không nhiều. - 1
3. Lúc chạy được, lúc không - 1
4. không sửa được. - 13
Nguồn: Xboxscene, 2004, The official " X-Clamp" Replacement success, http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=595746

Tỷ lệ trên rất khá, mong các bạn tham khảo theo cách này
Xbox 360 – X-Clamp Replacement



Updated : 16th May 2007 - Added FAQ, Shim, Washer Numbers, Typo's, General Update ...



There has been a lot of discussion and debate that the X clamps are the root cause of the 3 red light hardware errors caused by the chip BGU pins becoming broken away from the mainboard.



I have no evidence to suggest that they are the cause of this, but by replacing the X clamps with an alternative clamping mechanism, the 3 ROL problem is possibly eliminated. I believe this is purely down to the chip being pressed harder onto the mainboard, thus restoring the broken connection. Success rates have been good with this method, but I do not guarantee that this will solve the problem !



Some people have just bolted the heatsinks to the mainboard via some M5 bolts, retaining the M5 thread on the heatsinks – this seems to work, but I was very concerned that the board is now under stress (infact the reverse of the X clamp) and a similar problem could occur down the road. Also the board was taking the weight of the heatsinks and was not being supported at all in the middle.



My design was to use a common PC heatsink mounting solution which connected all three components together – case, board and heatsink. A simple set of spring washers was used to create the necessary downward pressure on the heatsink so that it maintained pressure on the die.



Contents :



0. Parts

1. Preparing the heatsinks Pt I

2. Preparing the case

3. Replacing the mainboard

4. Preparing the heatsinks Pt II

5. Mounting the CPU Heatsink

6. Mounting the GPU Heatsink

7. Completing & testing

8. Diagram showing the number of Washers

9. FAQ - READ ME !!

10. Shim



1. Parts



UK



Part Description


B&Q Ref # (UK)


# in packet


# Packets Req


Cost (£)

Machine Screws (4mm x 20mm) + Nuts (3mm thick)


AVF-069314


10


1


£1.30

Spring Washer (4mm)


AVF-065088


30


1


£1.30

Flat Washer (4mm) – 0.71mm thick


AVF-064951


70


1


£1.30

Nylon Lock Nut (4mm)


AVF-064685


4


2


£2.60

Total











£6.50



Update : 11Apr07 - Removed additional 3mm thick nuts from list as they are no longer needed. They WILL be needed if the bolts you get do not come with nuts !



US



Part Description


LOWES # (US)


# in packet


# Packets Req


Cost (£)

Machine Screws (4mm x 20mm) + Nuts ? (3mm thick)


138556


2


4


$2.72

Wave Lock Washer (4mm)


138220


10


1


$0.56

Flat Washer (4mm) – 0.71mm thick


138205


10


5


$2.80

Lock Nut (4mm)


138238


4


2


$1.36
Nuts (3mm thick) - I am unsure if the above Screw Part Number (138556) comes with the nuts - if it doesn't, then you'll need eight 4mm (3mm deep) nuts too. ? You may need 8 ?

Total











$7.44



(LOWES part numbers courtesy of lawdawg0931/xbox-scene.com)



1. Preparing the Heatsinks Pt I



Remove the X clamps – CAUTION advised here. Getting these clamps off without slipping and damaging the board goes without saying. Use a small Philips screwdriver and insert it into the end of the clamp where it clips onto the legs. Slowly lever the clamp against the leg until it unclips. Then do the same to the next leg (not opposite) – you may need to do a 3rd leg before it comes off. If it doesn’t want to go, then try another leg – do NOT force it off – you’re likely to slip and take out critical parts on the board !



The GPU & CPU Heatsink :-







(PS - ignore the RAM h/s paste, it's simply there to indicate that I had good contact with the thermal pads..)



Remove the legs from the heatsink using a ¼” socket :-





2. Preparing the case



We need to drill bigger holes in the case that will hold the heatsinks in place.



Case prior to drilling :-





My bolts were M4 (4mm) therefore I drilled each hole with a 4mm drill. I also countersunk each hole lightly so that the bolts would sit flush to the outer case. To do this (and for the drilling) place a block of wood under the case or you’ll just end up bending the case out of shape. There is no need to get the bolts perfectly flush as we have some space to work with. Do not over countersink the holes, or the bolts will go straight through ..





Put a bolt though each hole, a single washer (0.71mm), and a 3mm deep nut. These need to be done up tightly with a spanner and screwdriver to stop the bolt from spinning. If these are not done up tightly, then you will have trouble doing up the nylon lock nuts.





Once they are all done up tight, then take some pliers and straighten them up because it’s likely that some will be ‘bent’ and not align with the holes in the mainboard when we get to that stage. They haven’t got to be perfect, just roughly 90 degrees to the case.







The height of the nuts + washer is exactly the same height as the mainboard standoff’s pressed into the case (see pic above). This means that the board will be FLAT – not bent in any way. The other pics just shows the bolts sitting flush (ish) with the bottom of the case..



IMPORTANT NOTE



It is critical that any swarf (chippings of metal from drilling etc) are thoroughly removed from the area before proceeding. Do this by visual looking for them, blowing on the area, banging the case upside down etc …



3. Replacing the mainboard



First things first, make sure your thermal pads on the bottom RAM haven’t dropped off … Also take the opportunity whilst the board is out to do any underboard soldering mods, such as the Fan Header, Ethernet LED etc etc - have a look at my home page for ideas .. :)



Lining up the board with the bolts is fairly tricky actually because you usually have to put the mainboard in at an angle, fan side first. With the bolts in place, you need to get the board in flat. So tuck it under the fan lip, then line it up with the bolts. If you did a good job straitening the bolts above, then it should slip straight on. If not, then some GENTLE persuasion may get them on – if not, take it out and straighten up the bolts …



The mainboard with the bolts exposed :-





You should be able to press lightly on the board next to any of the bolts and there should be no movement at all. Don't put in the normal board screws yet ....



4. Preparing the Heatsinks Pt II



Up until this stage, we could abandon the project and put everything back as it was (use a washer on the small screws to stop them falling into the bigger holes you drilled) but we now need to drill the heatsinks. THIS IS NOT EASILY REVERSABLE !



We want the 4mm bolt to easily slip through the hole, therefore drill both the GPU and GPU heatsink mount holes with a 5mm drill…



There has been a few discussions on why we need to do this stage on the forums - I found that the h/s kept catching on the bolt thread - the h/s leg thread is no longer used so I just drilled it out. By all means try it without drilling first, if it works then great ...



CPU :-





GPU (Ignore the state of my GPU heatsink – that’s another tutorial … ) :-





The problem with the GPU h/s is that we cannot put any nuts or washers easily to hold it down (now that we have drilled out the thread..) so we need to make space for the nuts by removing the heatsink vanes as follows :-





My task was fairly easy as I had already cut the vanes into sections, but the Aluminium is fairly soft, so a decent pair of side cutters should do the trick. Repetedly bending the vanes held in long nosed pliers will make them snap off neatly. No need for a totally flush finish, just need enough height for the nuts etc.



Grim_d on Xbox-Scene has kindly offered to create a detailed tutorial for this part of the tutorial as this is the 'hard' bit for those of you with limited access to tools etc. As soon as he has done it then I'll post a link or include it within this tutorial. Tks in advance Grim.



5. Mounting the CPU heatsink



Unfortunately there was not enough room to put a 3mm nut on the bolts to hold the board tight (which I would have liked to do) but it will still be held tight by the other nuts anyway. I therefore put two washers (0.71mm=2.13mm) on each bolt.



Before putting on thermal paste, put the CPU heatsink on and gently rock it square on the CPU die – there should be a fraction of movement in each direction.



Put fresh paste on as normal (AS5 in the pics below) and put the heatsink on correctly (heatpipe facing away from the GPU!)







Put on a single washer, followed by a spring washer…





Followed by another single washer, followed by a nylon lock – do not do anything up tightly yet !







Whilst creating this, I just used a normal nut, in my final version I used a nylon lock nut as seen on the GPU pictures …



Do all 4 nuts up by hand as tight as you can get them.



Using a socket that matches your nut size – do the nuts up by tightening a quarter of a turn at a time, then move the diagonally opposite nut to ensure it’s all square and EQUALLY tightened. The spring washer in the set will slowly get crushed flat (under pressure) thus putting downward pressure on the heatsink onto the die.



There is no need to fully tighten the nut so the washer is totally flat – there will be no harm if you do as the two washers ontop of the board will stop you over tightening. Just be sensible guys, this is a CPU we are dealing with here, not a engine cylinder head !



What we have just created is the OPPOSITE of the X-Clamps – we are how holding the board tight, but putting downward (but moveable – remember the bolt is NOT fixed to the heatsink ) pressure on the heatsink, via the spring washer and onto the die. If done up tight, then you restrict the movement - this is fine also.



6. Mounting the GPU heatsink



Exactly the same method for the GPU :-



Put two washers on the bolts as per the CPU, double check the clearance is good by rocking the h/s slighty. To DOUBLE CHECK - clean all the paste off the h/s, tighten the nuts lightly, then undo them again and remove the h/s. It should have a nice trace of paste stuck to it. See Section 8 for a diagram showing the number of washers. In extreme cases, a shim may be needed to push the die down - see 'Shim'



Apply fresh AS5, replace the heatsink (again, making sure of the correct position), then put a single washer as shown below :-





.. then a spring washer.. followed by a lock nut. I have also subsequently also added a further nut on top of the lock nut as they seemed to coming loose - this may have been because I undid them so many times when trying this (wearing out the nylon lock) or maybe the heat softens the nylon. If you find the nuts are not as tight as when you did them up - then add another nut.







Because of the limited space available on the GPU (because of the fins), doing up the nuts was more challenging, but I found a socket pressed into the fins to bend them out slightly worked fine. I bend them back when it was all done up.



Fully tighten the nuts, this seems to be the only way to fix the 3ROL on most consoles.



7. Completion & Testing



Plug in the power and test things before proceeding to put it all back together again ..





Firstly you’ll need to put in the RF board so you can power it on …



On powering on, the heatsinks should get hot within a minute or so (no fans), if they do then great, job done !



Put it all back together again remembering to screw all the outside screws in to hold all the interfaces, then replace the fans, shroud/air flow guide (with divider..), etc etc.



This should eliminate the 3ROL – if it doesn’t then you could try tightening up the bolts – most likely on the GPU side. Do not overtighten, the washers should stop catastrophic board failure but the board is only fiberglass, it WILL split if given enough pressure …

IMPORTANT NOTE FOR A LASTING FIX



You should NOT have to overheat the GPU/CPU for the fix to work. ie Towel Fix, Removing the Fans or whatever. If the 3ROL does not go after the first or maybe second power on attempt - then you have not fixed the problem - try changing the number of washers or torque settings on the nuts, lastly try the Shim. Heating it will simply temporarily fix the problem, and the 3ROL will return at some stage.



8. Diagram showing the number of Washers vs Board Flexing



IMPORTANT - Please note that 1 washer is no longer recommended as it potentially sits on components - use the Shim method instead for an extreme fix - see below.



9. FAQ



A. Do I need to heat the board for this to work ? No you should not need to. If you do, then you are likely fixing the problem by warping the board rather than keeping pressure on the joint with the bolts.

B. Which heat method do you recommend ? I don't recommend any .. but if you have to, then the only one I recommend is to just remove the power from the fans and let the chips and heatsinks heat up until you get the two red lights (ie overheating). Towel method is NOT recommended - it will kill other components on the board ...

C. I powered up and immediately got 3ROL, powered off, then on again and it was all ok - why is that ? The 3ROL is a serious hardware error and this needs to be reset when doing a POST (Power on Self Test) - you may be unlucky and need to do this twice, but usually the first power on is successful.

D. It still doesn't work - what could be wrong ? You may need to do a little investigation to find where the problem is - do all the nuts up fairly tight and then press hard on each corner of the GPU heatsink whilst booting, it it boots with a particular corner pressed down, then that's the corner where you need to do the nuts up tighter, or loosen the other forcing unequal pressure on the die/board.

E. Still doesn't work ... ? Try the 'Shim' method below ...

F. It now boots but locks up after a few minutes into a game, but seems fine in the dashboard ? Heat is the problem here, the joint you made is 'just' good enough to pass POST, but when playing a game, the thermal movement breaks it again. You can proove this by removing the DVD, swing it 90 degress so you can get to the heatsink. Rig up a fan blowing cold air directly onto the GPU heatsink. Play your game again and it'll probably be fine. Remove the fan and it'll likely lock up within 10 seconds of you removing it. Two fix's - 1 is to fix it properly (you may need a shim) or 2 is to provide much better cooling (see my other mods, recommend the divider if you have not done this already..)

G. It works - what do I need to do now to make it last ? Cooling, cooling and more cooling ! That was the reason it failed in the first place so make sure you cool the damn thing down this time. Look at my cooling mods for some ideas - the separator really makes a difference to the temp of the GPU heatsink. You can combine this with the other mods too.



10. Shim



The 'Shim' is a small piece of Aluminium or Copper that is 2cm x 1cm x 1mm thick. This was cut from an old heatsink that I had. It obviously needs to be perfectly flat to sit on the die and interface with the main heatsink. Cover the top and bottom is AS5 and sit it onto the die (both main and daughter die - as per the paste imprints below..)



Use three washers with a 1mm thick Shim, two washers if 0.5mm thick etc. This presses the centre die down whilst keeping the heatsink normal height. This has reliably fixed consoles where 3 or 2 washer fix'es have failed... :)

-------

If this mod is successful, then please add an entry into the Xbox-Scene results poll here http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=595746

Disclaimer – By doing ANY of the above, you will be voiding the MS Warranty – I cannot be held responsible by any damage caused to yourself or the console.



Thanks,



Richard.



All my other mods here :- RBJTech – Xbox Modding Homepage



..and yes that hit counter is correct ()

P/S: Thông tin trên đây có tính chất tham khảo, mình sẽ không chịu trách nhiệm gì với thông tin trên. thân

 

Sorry mọi người, sao không có hình ảnh nhỉ?????

 

Copy thì copy cả link luôn thì mới có ảnh chứ bạn .... !!!

 

Bạn ko thấy nó chụp hình 360 toàn để đứng ko hả. Nó đã thiết kế để đứng được thì ko sao đâu mình nghĩ người ta dặn thế tại vì để đứng thì dễ ... rớt nên hư !

 

như ps2 có thiết kế đứng nhưng người ta không để dứng lý do mắt đọc dễ bị lệch trục có chiều hướng đi xuống không tốt ^_^

 

Hixx thả nào hồi trước cái ps2 slim của mình để đứng đọc đĩa kêu rẹt rẹt để nằm lại im re ....

Hixx bây giờ lại đến cái xbox360 huhu để đứng đọc cái đĩa kêu cọt kẹt cọt kẹt creeeeeeeet bây giờ để nằm thấy đọc im re ....

 

để đứng còn có 1 khuyết điểm nữa đang đứng mà nó té 1 cái là tiu luôn cái đĩa còn có cơ may tổn hại cái đầu đọc nữa.
Nói chung red ring tui đi khắp các diễn đàn chưa ở đâu nhìu = anh em gamevn. 1 phần là do khí hậu việt nam nóng nữa là anh em có 1 sỡ thích là khoái để máy để down demo gametrailer để coi hd cho đã. 3 nữa là máy ở vn em có cảm giác các cửa hàng thu máy cũ rồi retouch lại cho nó mới xong bán vì em để ý từ khi hack firmware tràn lan các máy mới có hiện tượng này Các bác mua máy đời đầu như ngyuenvu zerg tui hay xeros chưa ai bị gì cả . 4 là 1 số thích dùng coi dvd để được cảm giác 720p điển hình là bác alibaba và 40 cô gái vì ép cái x360 đọc đĩa 300 nó đã không chịu đọc mà cố nhét vào nó đình công luôn. 5 là chơi kiểu vừa chơi vừa vắt sức cái console được bao nhiu hay bấy nhiu như trường hợp bác trương hào hùng. 6 Là do lười các bác chơi xong không bỏ đĩa ra khay và không rút phích ra cứ để adapter on hoài. 7 là đĩa trầy trụa quá thì chơi 1 lần đứng là mua đĩa khác luôn đừng cố nhét vào hoặc lấy ra lấy áo quệt sơ rồi nhét vô lại cho nó đọc tiếp.

 

Để đứng thấy cũng chắc chắn lắm mà không sao đâu trừ trường hợp bên ngoài tác động thôi ....

 

cái này tui cũng nghe người ta nói thôi not so sure. Người ta nói là khi để đừng mắt laze trong máy sẽ bị trĩu xuống trong khi đọc đĩa làm ảnh hưởng tới tuổi thọ của mắt. Còn đúng hay không thì chịu. đó là lý do tại sao ps2 thiết kế đứng mà ps3 lại thiết kế nằm hoàn toàn vì nằm vốn là tư thế cân bằng nhất tốt nhất cho mắt đọc. Thiết kế đứng là hoàn toàn dư thừa nên sony mới bỏ.

 

Ai cứu với . Nãy đang chơi CoD thì bỗng nhiên bị đứng hình. Restart máy lại thì mới khởi động dc chừng vài giây lại bị đứng rồi ROD hiện ra . Bị như vậy là sao? Còn sửa dc ko?

 

chào mừng đến với thế giới ROD ! ko còn nghi ngờ gì nữa ! đứng hình là yếu tố dẫn đến ROD cao nhất ..mịa ..

hehe ..khỏi đi những điều này chẵn có yếu tố khoa học chút nào cả .ROD chỉ do nhiệt độ nóng như Hỏa diệm sơn của nước VN mình mà ra cả ? hầu như các máy ko chơi trong phòng lạnh điều bị ,và máy đã bị ,rồi đem sữa về chơi cao lắm cũng là 1 tháng ! và lúc bấy giờ có chơi trong phòng lạnh cũng ko tránh đc .

 

cái vụ mua máy ở hotgame là bị ROD có thiệt kô vậy
ai mua máy ở hotgame giơ tay lên nào

 

Tui mua ở hotgame nè. Mà bây giờ máy tui bị vậy giải quyết làm sao?

 

chẹp chắc phải đổi wa mua HL wá
website của nó là gì ấy nhẩy

 

HL hình như có đại lý ngoài này là GamesCenter 16 Lý Nam Đế Còn Hiệp Lực 2 hình như là đồ nhái Cái vụ mua ở Hot Girl là bị ROD là sao? Hay là tại dân tình toàn mua ở đấy chứ vụ ROD làm sao mà mỗi Hot Girl bị đc? Ai mua ở chỗ khác mà vẫn bị ROD giơ tay lên đi

 

Máy còn bảo hành ko ?
Đem ra tiệm hotgame sữa chứ sao giờ ? máy tui bị hết lần rồi ? giờ bị nữa nè chuẩn bị đem ra cái tiệm bên nguyễn quang bích gởi sửa tập 2 đây ? ông bạn ở đâu hữa ? nếu ở tphcm thì chắc máy của tớ và của cậu sẽ song hành cùng nhau sang TQ á ..^^ hôhoh

 

bao gi nua hotgame noi la khong bao hanh may red ring ma`. Chia buo`n cu`ng ca'c ha.